How to Recognize an Original Louis Vuitton Bag?
Founded in 1854, Louis Vuitton is one of the oldest luxury fashion retailers in the world. The French fashion house has gained extraordinary fame for its luxury trunks, characterized by the brand's signature treated canvas.
The famous LV monogram that we all recognize today was already present on Louis Vuitton travel trunks when they were created in 1896. The monogram and other distinctive details were introduced precisely because counterfeiters were already trying to replicate these iconic trunks. But you may be wondering: why are we talking about Louis Vuitton trunks in a bag guide?
The answer is simple: the qualities that made LV travel trunks so desirable are still present in the current range of Louis Vuitton bags. In fact, the treated canvas used for those vintage trunks is the same one used today for iconic LV bags, such as the Speedy or the Neverfull.
The incredible quality and durability are what make Louis Vuitton bags so sought after and expensive. With this demand and exclusivity comes the temptation for counterfeiters to sell cheap knockoffs for illicit profits.
Louis Vuitton has produced so many styles of bags and travel accessories over the years that it would take an entire book to describe the steps required to authenticate each model. However, if there is one thing that Louis Vuitton has kept constant over the last 150 years, it is the quality of materials, hardware, and craftsmanship that goes into making each and every bag.
Knowing the common features that most, if not all, LV bags share is a great way to spot the fakes you may encounter when shopping for your next Louis. The following authentication steps apply to both LV bags that are 20-30 years old and newer models.
1. Examine the Shape, Proportions and Structure
When you buy a luxury bag like a Louis Vuitton, you are investing in a product of the highest quality. The appearance of the bag is the first fundamental element to evaluate during the authentication process, because obvious signs such as sagging when the bag is put down, excessive creases, abnormal proportions or an imperfect appearance are warning signs.
The treated fabric from which these items are made should not feel overly soft or flexible.
New Louis Vuitton bags must be impeccable: the handles must be sturdy and perfectly symmetrical. The bag should not sag, meaning it should not bend or sag due to the lack of an internal structure that supports the leather sides and keeps it upright.
Even second-hand Louis Vuitton bags should retain the same structural qualities as when they were new, while still showing signs of aging, such as a light patina. In fact, many Louis Vuitton enthusiasts appreciate the golden honey patina that develops after years or decades of use.
In other words, Louis Vuitton stands out from other luxury brands for the extraordinary durability of its bags, which maintain their shape and rigidity over time. In addition, it is important to note that the posture and shape of the bag largely depend on the unique material from which it is made.
Warning : If a Louis Vuitton bag, new or second-hand, sags, it is likely not authentic.
2. Look carefully at the quality and stitching.
Like every other detail on a Louis Vuitton bag, the stitching must be impeccable. Make sure it is even and symmetrical, with no signs of fraying or the use of poor quality thread.
Authentic Louis Vuitton bags are hand-sewn, which means that each stitch should have a slight slope. Be wary of bags with perfectly straight stitching: this is a clear sign that they were machine-made and are most likely imitations.
Another key feature of authentic Louis Vuitton bags is the color of the stitching.
Louis Vuitton uses a thread coated with a special resin that ensures greater durability and resistance to atmospheric agents. This resin gives the stitching of the original bags an unmistakable mustard yellow color.
Imitations, on the other hand, often use synthetic bright yellow or orange threads, an easily recognizable detail and a clear warning sign. Like the Vachetta leather trim found on many Louis Vuitton monogram canvas bags, the resin on authentic stitching also develops a patina over time, slightly darkening its tone, giving it a more natural look.
Finally, the number of stitching stitches is a crucial aspect to verify authenticity. In some specific areas, such as where the handles are attached to the bag, there must be exactly 3 or 5 stitches along the top of the flap, depending on the model. To be sure, you can compare your item with photos of authentic bags or consult the official Louis Vuitton website.
An example of the authentic Alma from 2004. You can see the golden color of the patina that the leather has acquired over time, as well as the characteristic mustard yellow color of the stitching. The Alma has exactly 5 stitches on the top of each flap (as shown in the photo) where the handles join the body of the bag.
3. Check the Material, Hardware and Build Quality
When you think of a Louis Vuitton, you probably think of a Speedy, an Alma or a Neverfull in brown LV monogram canvas, which are among the most widespread and popular models. However, Louis Vuitton offers a wide range of options.
Throughout the variety of Louis Vuitton bags, the materials, hardware, and build quality are very similar. Knowing the materials is a great way to distinguish an authentic Louis Vuitton from a fake. Here are the most common materials Louis Vuitton makes their bags from:
Monogram 'LV' Canvas:
The Louis Vuitton monogram is the brand's most recognizable aesthetic and has been a classic for over 100 years. This material was revolutionary for its time, thanks to the treatment process and the extraordinary durability that comes with it.
Don’t confuse it with leather: While it feels very luxurious, monogram canvas doesn’t have to have any of the grain of leather. Counterfeiters often use synthetic materials that imitate leather, printing the monogram over it, but they can’t replicate Louis Vuitton’s unique treatment process.
Warning : If the monogram canvas material feels like leather, it is a fake. Monogram canvas should feel stiff and durable, not soft and flexible.
Monogram Multicolor:
Limited edition and now discontinued, the multicolor monogram was introduced in 2003 as the result of a special collaboration between Louis Vuitton and artist Takashi Murakami, inspired by the bright colors of tropical summers.
Damier Monogram Canvas:
Another iconic Louis Vuitton style is the Damier canvas, also known as the "checkered" pattern. This design is mainly available in two variations: Damier Ebene (brown/black canvas) and Damier Azur (white/blue canvas). There are also other versions in colors such as graphite.
Many women choose Damier pattern bags because they make a more subtle statement than the logo-covered monogram, but the material used is the same. Damier bags are perfect for everyday use; however, it is important to note that the Damier Azur version tends to show scratches and signs of wear more easily due to its white coating.
Monogram Vernis Leather:
One of Louis Vuitton’s more youthful and fun offerings, the Monogram Vernis, or “patented,” leather is made of calfskin coated with a glossy layer of patent leather. It’s unique among other LV bags not only in its appearance, but also in its durability. While Louis Vuitton’s Monogram canvas is known for its nearly indestructible strength, the Vernis is much more delicate and susceptible to scratches and scuffs. For this reason, it’s essential to know how to properly care for this bag to preserve its beauty over time.
Monogram Empreinte:
Louis Vuitton's Monogram Empreinte is very similar to Gucci's Guccissima leather, where the soft, supple, luxurious calfskin is embossed with the brand's logo.
LV leather has a distinctive odor and should never smell like harsh chemicals, as counterfeits often do. Calfskin material is quite durable, but it is not as weather-resistant as LV monogram canvas.
4. Check the Print, Shape and Font Size
Another detail that Louis Vuitton keeps constant in all its bags is the printing, or engraving. Inside the bag you will find a leather label with the stamp "Louis Vuitton Paris". It is important to carefully examine the shape of the font, the space between the letters and the quality of the printing, as this is one of the aspects that counterfeiters get wrong most often!
The first thing you should notice is the style of the letters. On authentic Louis Vuitton stamps, the font is as follows: the "L" has a short base, the "O"s are large and round (not oval!), the two "T"s are very close together, almost as if they were touching (TT), but not quite, and the font style is thin and sharp.
Warning : The two typical fonts used by Louis Vuitton are called Futura and Austin Roman, but it is not that simple. The house uses a specific style within the font family and the LV logo is completely custom, which means that the font used for the logo should never match a generic font.
The stitching around the stamp should also be clean and even: loose threads, uneven stitching, or an asymmetrical stamp are signs of a fake.
For a quick and easy verification of the authenticity of the LV stamp, look at the relationship between the "L" and the "O" in the word "Louis", as well as the ® symbol. If there is a noticeable space between the "L" and the "O", this is a red flag.
The "L" and "O" are very close together in authentic Louis Vuitton stamps. Also, you can check the ® symbol to verify its position: it should be symmetrical and positioned exactly between the "V" and "U" in "Vuitton". If it appears too far from the center line between the "V" and "U", it is probably a fake.
Warning : The style of the letters is an obvious sign to identify fakes. Distant "T"s and oval "O"s are an immediate indication of a counterfeit bag.
Two examples of authentic Louis Vuitton interior stamping. The left is a vintage example, so some patina and wear on the stamped leather label is normal. Note the mustard yellow color of the stitching, as well as the slight angle of each stitching.
On the right is a modern example, but what is most striking is that even in the vintage example, the stamped letters are as clear and crisp as in the modern one - a testament to the authentic quality of the Louis Vuitton stamp. Use these images as a reference: all authentic LV stamps should look like this.
5. Make sure the Date Code is Correct
From the 1980s until early 2021, Louis Vuitton used a proprietary system of date codes to indicate where and when its bags were made. Chanel uses a numeric sequence for the date code, which functions as a serial number used in the authentication process. Hermes uses a letter within a shape to determine the year a bag was made.
Until early 2021, Louis Vuitton used a combination of letters and numbers to determine the location and week of the year the bag was produced. Verifying that the LV bag's date code is authentic and matches the "made in" stamp is one of the main checkboxes for authentication.
However, if your bag is newer, please note that as of March 2021, Louis Vuitton has stopped using date codes and has instead started placing NFC tags or chips in every new bag.
A tiny NFC chip is hidden inside each new bag during the manufacturing process and is too small to be detected or felt by hand. Near Field Communication (NFC) technology is a type of radio frequency identification (RFID) technology used, for example, in modern iPhones for features like Apple Pay.
The NFC chip contains a unique identifier, which corresponds to specific information about the bag stored on LVMH servers, accessible only to Louis Vuitton staff. Anyone can scan the chip with an NFC reader, but only LV staff can scan the chip and access the LVMH database to reveal information about each specific bag.
When an item is scanned by LV staff, the database reveals where and when the bag was produced, the model code and description, as well as where and when it was sold.
You should always be aware that some counterfeiters – especially the more skilled ones who produce the convincing replicas called “super fakes” – are aware of Louis Vuitton’s date code system and the lack of a date code on new bags. Never rely solely on the date code as proof of authenticity: take everything into account and examine the bag as a whole to determine if it is authentic.
On Louis Vuitton bags, you will generally find a two-letter code followed or preceded by four numbers. The exception to this general rule is specially made-to-order bags, which use the AAS code, and some vintage Louis Vuitton bags.
The four numbers are also very important, as they encode the production date of your bag – Louis Vuitton goes as far as specifying the exact week of the year for newer bags and the month for older ones.
For Louis Vuitton bags produced from 2007 to present, the first and third numbers represent the week, while the second and fourth numbers represent the year the bag was produced.
For example, for a Louis Vuitton bag made in France in 2021, the date would be written as DU0211, where the first and third numbers (0 and 1) indicate the first week of the year, while the second and fourth numbers (2 and 1) represent the year 2021.
For bags produced between 1990 and 2006, the system is similar, but the first and third numbers represent the month the bag was produced, not the week.
